The Covão dos Conchos, in the heart of 'Serra da Estrela', has recently been the subject of much discussion due to its mystical atmosphere in a seemingly isolated location. And, of course, we couldn't miss out on visiting this unique destination.
The truth is that despite its natural appearance, Covão dos Conchos is entirely man-made. Built in the 1950s, this tunnel was created with the aim of carrying water from the 'Serra da Estrela' Lagoon area to 'Lagoa Comprida'. In total, the tunnel is around 48 meters wide and an impressive 1,519 meters long.
Although it is not very easy to access, there is a unmarked trail which allows you to explore Conchos Cove. At around 5 km each way, and despite the altitude of the location, the trail is fairly easy to walk and only has a few physically challenging sections. At the same time, the trail to get there is beautiful and you will find scenery that is completely different from what you might expect.
That said, there is currently no brochure describing the route, but you can easily find a GPS file to follow in real time, as shown in the example below. from Wikiloc which highlights some interesting points. At the same time, contrary to what we expected, the trail follows a dirt road for almost its entire length, which makes it much easier for those with a poor sense of direction.
In total, it took us about 3.5 to 4 hours to walk the trail, explore the area a little, and return. If, like us, you do the hike in the middle of winter, keep in mind that the sun sets early and that, even on sunny days, the nights are very cold in 'Serra da Estrela'! So, try to start the trail early to enjoy it and avoid any problems.
The trail to 'Covão dos Conchos' is about 5 km (each way).
From 'Lagoa Comprida' to Covão Conchos: the trail
And it is precisely at 'Lagoa Comprida', the destination for the water that comes from 'Covão dos Conchos', that the trail begins. Located at an altitude of 1,600 meters, this impressive water reservoir has a storage capacity of 14.000.000 m3 – and the trail you are about to walk will show you exactly how big it is.
Leaving the parking lot, and after visiting 'Lagoa Comprida', turn left and follow the dirt road that runs alongside the water. On your right, you will see a fenced-off area with some antennas and, shortly after, a structure that resembles a tunnel—you are on the right track. From here, follow the main road; you can't miss it.
Shortly afterwards, in an area where the path runs right alongside the waters of Lagoa Comprida, there is an information panel that tells you a little about the geography of the place and the landscape you see around you. Continue along the dirt track and prepare yourself for the beauty you are about to encounter!
When the path moves away from the long lagoon after about 2 km, you will pass an access road to a house located there. As you continue on, be sure to look back! You will find a wonderful scene of a house built in a semi-suspended effect under the long lagoon.
In our case, we did the trail during a colder period and just a few weeks after it had snowed, so we found the path still quite slippery, with puddles of water and, in the shadier spots, ice. The effect was magical, but we really recommend that you wear sturdy, non-slip footwear.
During most of the route to Covão dos Conchos, you will experience some elevation gain, but nothing that makes this trail difficult. After about 3.5 km, you will find one of the highest parts of the trail: a true plateau. Here, the landscape is breathtaking: we go from a truly mountainous setting, full of greenery and rocks, to a completely different setting.
During the hike to Covão dos Conchos, you may encounter ice or puddles of water – wear comfortable, non-slip footwear.
Once you pass this section, the trail begins to veer more to the right towards the final destination, which is just over 1 km away, almost entirely downhill. This descent to Serra da Estrela Lagoon is very fast, so be careful where you step, as it is easy to catch your foot on a loose rock and slip.
Continuing along this route, you will see Lagoa da Serra da Estrela on your left, but you may not be able to spot Covão dos Conchos straight away—the fact that it is exactly at water level and the reflection of the sky in the water makes this building almost imperceptible. To visit it, you must continue to the far end of the lagoon, right at the opposite end from where you came.
Please note that, as you approach the destination, the path ends and you will have to climb over rocks and make a few difficult ascents/descents. We don't think it's complicated, and it can be done without any problems with children, but we don't recommend it for people with mobility issues.
When you arrive at Covão dos Conchos, you need to be very careful! There is a warning sign at the site itself about the dangers of getting too close or diving in that area, namely the danger of suction, so we have to be responsible.
Enjoy the scenery, the calm of Serra da Estrela, and appreciate the incredible relationship between a man-made engineering feat that seems to have been born there. Once you have finished enjoying the beauty, drink some water, have a snack, and get ready to make your way back to another incredible feat of engineering: Lagoa Comprida.
Where to eat
Before venturing out on this trail, we went for lunch. Anyone who has visited Serra da Estrela knows that its cuisine is among the best in the country. Consequently, although we expected to eat well, we hadn't done any research and couldn't linger too long because, in the middle of December, the sun sets early and we still had a trail to Covão dos Conchos to complete.
That said, after visiting Loriga, we stopped by a restaurant called 'Cantinho da Serra' (6270-080 Loriga) and we can't help but recommend it! One of us had 'bacalhau à espiritual' (Best Cod Fish ever) and the other had rice with shrimp/seafood, and both were divine — and we're talking about a menu that isn't fixed!
At the same time, the whole atmosphere screamed “Serra da Estrela” and the service was the best we could have hoped for. At another table was a gentleman from the north of the country who had brought some friends to the restaurant because it was his favorite in the area.
If you pass through Loriga and Cantinho da Serra is open, be sure to stop there for a bite to eat. The prices are reasonable and the food is divine!
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